Choose Lawn and Fill Based on Intended Use
Artificial turf is made of nylon, polypropylene, or polyethylene. Nylon is the softest and most lifelike, but also the least durable. Polypropylene is essentially the opposite: durable, but impractical. Polyethylene strikes a nice balance, and because it's easy to clean and deodorize, it's the best choice if you have pets.
Stack height is another important consideration. Two to three inches is best for high-traffic areas, increasing product durability and making walking and playing more comfortable. Shorter stack heights (from 1/2 inch to 1-1/2 inch) are easier to maintain and are a better choice for low-traffic areas like patios and apartment balconies.
Infill is the material that is laid over the lawn immediately after installation to secure the lawn and help alleviate heat trapping from plastic grass sheets.
Shredded rubber made from recycled car tires is one of the most common fillers. But it's lightweight, doesn't hold up well in high winds, and can amplify the synthetic smell of turf. Plus, it's an environmental concern; recycled car rubber contains toxic chemicals that can leach into the ground.
Safely Kills Existing Grass
If you're replacing a lawn that has yellowed or has been struggling over the years, make sure the entire lawn is dead before covering it with porous turf. The safest way is to bask in the sun. That means covering it with black plastic and letting the sun bake it to death along with any weeds that are still growing. This process takes several months.
You can also simply dig up old grass. You'll want to remove at least four inches of topsoil to ensure you get all the roots. That's a lot of dirt, so make sure you have a plan for how to deal with it.
Prepare the Solid Matrix
Artificial turf can be installed directly on the ground. But it won't look like a lawn, because all the little bumps and depressions will be visible and distracting. Professionals recommend installing a four-inch base of Grade 2 subgrade rock or similar material and then compacting it to a firm surface.
An additional 1/2 to 1-inch layer of compacted sand or decomposed granite is best provided to provide a smooth underlay for the lawn. If you don't want to dig that deep, an inch-thick layer of compacted sand or decomposed granite is the bare minimum for sturdiness, comfort, and good drainage.
Level (level) the underlayment as you go. Flat areas of new artificial turf must have a slope of at least 1/4 inch per foot toward the point of runoff to prevent water from pooling under the turf and causing turf degradation.
Keep Blade Orientation Consistent
Artificial turf, like carpet, comes in thick rolls that can be difficult for one person to manage. You will need help moving and placing them. Once you get the roll in the general installation area, leave it in the sun for an hour or so before unrolling. It will be more flexible and have a flatter layout.
When you have to place two pieces of sod side by side to cover a large area, make sure the blades of both pieces are in the same direction. If they are facing in opposite directions, your new lawn will look like it was put together rather than one continuous whole.
Cut the Edges Slightly Longer
When you lay a lawn, you have to trim the edges the same way you trim a rug around a room. Pros recommend using a sharp utility knife for this and always cutting from the back.
Leave a few extra inches around the edges so you can tuck things under the border or against the sidewalk. If you leave too much, you can always cut more in the last step. But if you leave too little, you can end up with gaps that are hard to hide.
Secure the edges with landscape nails or landscape nails. You can use a carpet installer's knee kicker to stretch the turf so it's free of wrinkles and loose areas.